France and the Cadre Noir

 

Just back from the most fabulous trip to France.  The Normandy D-Day beaches, the Abbey at Mt. St. Michel, gardens and chateaux throughout the Loire Valley, and Paris.  We did it all and it was so beautiful. We had the best time.

When planning this trip the town of Saumur came up and sounded familiar.  Then I realized that Saumur is the home of the Cadre Noir and after a little investigation found that I could get tickets to a “practice” ride when we would be close by.  Sign me up!

I was expecting something like an open training observation but as we were pulling up and masses of people were around I began to realize this might be a big deal.  It was AMAZING!  Full light and sound practice run for their big events over the summer.  8 horses in hand in the ring at the same time doing all the lateral work plus the airs above the ground, sometimes completely synchronized.  A vaulting display that was exceptional.  A single horse doing the Grand Prix movements in a snaffle.  Long lining over BIG fences and never a missed distance.  And then the finale.  8 horses under saddle doing everything you can imagine plus the airs above the ground, sometimes in synch.  It was an extraordinary experience.  All the horses light.  Nothing pulled together or ugly.  Beautiful seats on the riders.  A once in a lifetime deal.

After a lovely lunch and walk around the castle in Saumur we came back for our guided barn tour in English.  As luck would have it, most of the tour cancelled, so it was just me my husband, and one other Belgian guy.  We got to go everywhere, see a lot of behind the scenes stuff, pet horses, and ask tons of questions.  The French government operates and funds the facility which houses the Cadre Noir, who also train all French riding instructors, and also some Olympic riders.  It was so cool and interesting to see how their barn system works.  For example each groom takes care of 8 horses that are in work so everything is as mechanized as possible.  Auto waterers of course but also auto grain three times per day.  Trap doors in each stall that lead to a conveyor belt to take away manure.  Groom’s aisles behind the stalls to keep clutter to a minimum in the main aisles.  And then the history of the Cadre Noir that started after Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo.  All in all just fascinating.

No pictures or video were allowed but here is a quick LINK to get a taste of what we experienced.